![]() When greeted with a field full of flowers it can be tempting to opt for a wide focal length (say, 18mm on your kit lens) and try to capture as much of the scene as possible. You can then merge these images in image-editing software such as Photoshop or Affinity Photo. If your camera doesn’t have this mode, you can achieve similar results by placing the camera on a tripod so it stays static, then switch to manual focus and start shooting, changing the point of focus for each frame by rotating the zoom ring on the lens slightly. The frames will then be automatically merged in-camera (or you can do this manually back at your computer) to produce a final image with a much greater depth of field, meaning more of the subjects in the frame will be razor-sharp. In this mode the camera will shoot multiple images, changing the point of focus slightly between each frame. So what’s the solution? Well, most cameras have a feature called Focus Stack (also called Focus Merge). One of the biggest challenges a photographer can face when shooting flowers is depth of field, which can be limited when you’re zoomed in on a flower, and even more so if you’re using a long lens with a compressed field of view, or a macro lens. (Image credit: Future | Matty Graham) Sure up sharpness with a focus stack To exaggerate the worm’s-eye effect use a wide-angle optic – this technique works great with flowers that are just a few inches tall, such as bluebells or poppies, but you can try it with any subject. Of course, this also means your camera will be upside down, but all you need to do once you’ve taken an image is flip it around in Photoshop. If you only have a regular tripod that’s not a problem, as most models allow you to remove the center column and reinsert it upside down, so that your camera is close to the ground. You can handhold the camera for such shots, or for more control you could use a mini tripod. You can even go really low for a worm’s-eye view – placing the camera on or close to the ground and angling it up will create a genuinely fresh take on your flowery subject. Why? Well, because this is the view of subjects we’re all used to seeing, and by going higher or lower you can show a new view of a familiar subject. If there’s one piece of composition advice you should follow it would be” ‘never take a photo from head height’. Sure you can get a few macros for free download, however, I really don't believe it is worth the effort to spend a lot of time on using lower quality macros without any possibility of getting support.(Image credit: Future | Matty Graham) Show a worm’s-eye view You can apply blending ranges or layer masks to limit the effect to specific areas. The result is easily adjusted and the macros work non-destructively wherever possible, preserving the original image. ![]() However, we make sure you are still in control. ![]() The ‘hard work' of doing a number of specific things in a particular order has been taken care of with these macros that can help all photographers to speed up their editing process. ![]() Double click on the layers generated by the macros to modify the settings, so it fits your particular image and makes your photos stand out.Įach layer is preserved in the layers panel, no matter whether it is live filters, white balance adjustment layers, or sharpening filters. Many of the macros enable you to change the effect strength. ![]() The Affinity macros/actions are fully adjustable and transparent in letting you see, what they do. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |